
Many thanks to Tracy Wilson of Wild Trax Supply, for allowing the use of this article on ExoticCatz.com.
Always feed a kitten laying on it's stomach or sitting / standing upright.
Never flip a kitten over on it's back and allow it to drink in the manner
that human babies are held.
Any time a kitten is started on a new formula, or switched to a
different formula recipe or brand, the new formula should be diluted
and introduced slowly.
Kittens should be eating
about 5% of their body weight on a daily basis until they are adults.
Sometimes the only notice that a young kitten gives before it
gets severely ill is just skipping one feeding.
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Here is a milk formula recipe that I have had great success raising serval
kittens and other small cat species on, along with some feeding and care
tips for kittens.
- 3/4 cup distilled water or unflavored Pedialyte
- 1/2 cup PLAIN UNFLAVORED yogurt, fat free (helps thicken the formula to help
prevent aspiration, and provides good bacteria to balance the digestive
system. Do not used vanilla or other flavored or sweetened yogurts as it
could cause diarrhea.)
- 1/4 cup Zoologics Milk Matrix 33/40 milk powder
- 1 teaspoon Osteo Form Calcium powder (available from Revival Animal Health
Item #83-224 OSTEOFORM POWDER 1 Lb.)
- 1/2 teaspoon Taurine powder (available from Revival Animal Health
Item 73-151 16 oz powder)
- 1 ml squirt of Poli Vi Sol liquid baby vitamins (human baby vitamins
available at pharmacies)
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| Leann Montgomery's ocelot kitten Machista. |
At about 4 weeks, you can add plain pureed chicken baby food to the formula
gradually. Start with a very small amount and gradually increase it so as
not to cause diarrhea.
Blend ingredients together in blender until smooth. Allow bubbles to settle
out of formula before feeding to prevent gas. Formula is only good for 24
hours, throw out any remaining after 24 hours. Must be refrigerated. Any
formula that is heated up for the kitten and not used must be thrown away if
not used within half hour, do not re-refrigerate heated formula. Formula
should not be heated up directly in microwave as hot spots could occur in
the formula that could burn the kitten internally. Instead, heat up a coffee
cup of water in the microwave for about 1 minute. After heating water, place
bottle (already filled with formula and nipple in place on the bottle), into
the cup of hot water and let it sit for about 1 minute.
Check formula
temperature by squirting a small amount on your wrist to ensure it is not
too hot to feed the kitten. It should be warm feeling, but not uncomfortably
hot to your wrist. Feeding overheated formula can cause severe internal
burns to a kitten, as most kittens typically drink so fast they will be
scalded before they realize the milk was too hot. My servals and other small
cat species have preferred a bottle nipple made by Four Paws called a "Vet
Nipple" N-30 the best. It is small and has a tapered end, not a round end.
(available through KV Vet Supply Item#: 80412)
Always feed a kitten laying on it's stomach or sitting / standing upright.
Never flip a kitten over on it's back and allow it to drink in the manner
that human babies are held, as milk could enter the kittens lungs and cause
aspiration, which can cause the kitten to develop pneumonia and die.
Note that any time a kitten is started on a new formula, or switched to a
different formula recipe or brand, that the new formula should be diluted
and introduced slowly. You can start by diluting the formula down to just
1/4 part formula to water (or Pedialyte). It is a good idea when a kitten is
first pulled from it's mother to start with unflavored pedialyte for the
first 24 hours that it accepts a bottle to allow the mother's milk to get
out of it's system. It might take several weeks to get up to full strength
formula. However, each kitten responds differently. Exercise patience and
increase formula strength very slowly. If at any time you increase the
amount of formula and diarrhea follows within a day, decrease the strength
of the formula back down to the strength where stools were fine and take
things slower before increasing the strength again.
It's a good idea to always stimulate a kitten up to around 4 weeks of age to
go to the bathroom before feeding to empty it's bladder or intestines.
Kittens under 4 weeks of age should be stimulated to potty at least 3-4
times a day. Kittens produce a huge amount of urine, so expect a lot of
urine, and small bowel movements maybe just once or twice a day. Gently dab,
(do not rub) their ano-genital areas with a soft tissue, warm baby wipe, or
wet warm cloth to stimulate them to potty both urine and feces. If you
irritate the kitten's bottom, it will feel raw and burning to the kitten
when they try to potty, which may make it reluctant to go at all. Be very
careful not to rub their bottoms raw. If the kitten's bottom is obviously
red and raw, you can apply a small amount triple antibiotic ointment to the
area. Once the kitten can potty on it's own, which is usually upwards of 3
to 4 weeks of age, then you no longer have to practice potty stimulation.
It is a good idea to keep a feeding journal on the kitten, to record the
strength of formula you are feeding and the status of stools so that you
know if diarrhea is directly related to a increase in formula strength. It
is also wise to keep track of how much the kitten is eating at each feeding
to ensure that it continues to increase in amount eaten, and not decrease at
any time. Rule of thumb for the amount to feed, kittens should be eating
about 5% of their body weight on a daily basis until they are adults.
It's
also important to weigh young kittens daily with a small kitchen scale. If
the kitten's weight starts to go down or the amount of milk consumed starts
to decrease from normal, then this is a signal that something is wrong with
the kitten, before it gets severely ill, and you should pay very close
attention. Sometimes the only notice that a young kitten gives before it
gets severely ill, is just skipping one feeding. If it refuses it's bottle
at the normal feeding time when it is normally hungry, try to stimulate it
to go to the bathroom, as it may have a full bladder. If a young kitten
refuses to eat anything at all in 24 hours, take it to the vet, something is
wrong. (not including when first pulled from it's mother and trying to start
on a bottle, this sometimes might take up to 48 hours before a bottle is
accepted for the first time.)
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| Letting others bottle feed your kitten is a good socialization technique, building positive associations with strangers from an early age. |
Typically diarrhea caused from too strong formula will be yellow and runny,
looking like yellow mustard. If a kitten has severe diarrhea for more than
24 hours, and it is a strange color or smell, seek veterinarian treatment
asap. If your kitten has diarrhea that has mucous, undigested particles,
blood, is green, or anything abnormal looking, seek a veterinarian treatment
immediately, as kittens can die from dehydration and diarrhea very quickly
if left untreated.
Note that is it common for exotic kittens to develop
illnesses called Giardia and Coccidia. Most all animals are exposed to
these bacteria's, but not all animals develop illness symptoms. Under normal
circumstances a healthy animal with a fully developed immune system will be
immune to exposure to Giardia and Coccidia. These illnesses are often
brought on in exotic kittens with immature immune systems by stress such as
moving to a new home, being shipped or transported, change in diet, or any
combination of stressful events, etc. These illnesses are not deadly in
themselves, however, the symptoms of diarrhea and dehydration can kill a
kitten quickly. So do not be alarmed if you kitten does develop one of these
illnesses, but do seek medical help immediately so that your kitten does not
die from the symptoms.
It is very easy to overfeed young kittens too much milk formula. Rule of
thumb: It is better to feed smaller amounts more frequently, than to feed
large amounts less often. Overfeeding can cause gas, bloating, and diarrhea.
Here's a general guideline for feeding intervals:
- 0-2 weeks of age - Every 2 to 3 hours around the clock, diluted formula.
- 3-4 weeks of age - Every 3 to 4 hours, around the clock, increasing formula
strength gradually.
- 4-6 weeks of age - Every 4 to 5 hours, sleep through the night. Can
gradually add plain pureed chicken baby food gradually to formula.
- 6-12 weeks of age - Morning, Noon, and Night. Start introducing solids foods
such as ground turkey or chicken, with supplements in small gradual amounts.
Can put milk on solid food to encourage kitten to eat it. Around 12 weeks of
age, you can also introduce small pieces of meat on the bone, such as a
chicken wing drum. The kitten will not be able to eat the bone for a while,
but it is good to start letting it try at this age. Eventually as the kitten
does start to eat the bone, you can move up to a larger piece of meat and
bone, such as a chicken drumstick.
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| Tracy Wilson bottle-feeding an older serval kitten. |
After 12 weeks, it is ok to wean the kitten off the bottle entirely if it is
eating solid food well, and some will wean themselves off sometimes even
earlier than that. If after 6-8 weeks your kitten is fighting the bottle
more than it wants to suck it, and is eating solids well, then quit fighting
to give it a bottle, and just let it move on to solids. At this point, you
should feed kittens solid food in small portions 3 times a day. Decrease the
frequency of feedings as the kitten gets closer to adulthood, with one
feeding per day as an adult.
It is also ok to let a kitten remain on a
bottle for as long as it will take a bottle. I have adult servals several
years old that will still suck a bottle any time it is offered. I generally
like to keep servals on the bottle until at least 18 months of age, with at
least one bottle a day from 12 weeks and older, to help ensure they are
getting enough calcium in their diet. It is also a good daily bonding
routine between owner and cat to continue bottle feeding into their
adulthood.
Many thanks to Tracy Wilson of Wild Trax Supply, for allowing the use of this article on ExoticCatz.com. Tracy is a USDA Licensed & Arkansas State Licensed Wildlife Rehabilitator, a member of the Feline Conservation Federation Board of Directors, and the owner of Wild Trax Feline Refuge and Wild Trax Supply. The proceeds from WildTrax Supply help support her feline refuge. This article is copyrighted 2005 by Tracy Wilson. All rights are reserved.
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